Vogue Designer Sonam Dubal brings his newest assortment to Chennai

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Within the lush, foliage-adorned oasis of Amethyst, a café-cum-boutique nestled within the coronary heart of Chennai, a trend symphony unfolded. 

Designer Sonam Dubal seamlessly juggled the roles of designer and elegance curator, aiding a shopper in deciding on a up to date shirt to enrich her chosen saree. This second set the stage for an unique tête-à-tête, providing a glimpse into the designer’s 33-year lengthy journey from the tea estates of Assam, to the worldwide trend scene.

The inspiration behind his newest Golden Thread assortment, which is a winter edit focussed on craft work and florals is a mixture of historically produced textiles — wool, silk, and velvet. “It’s all about mixing, as a result of in the present day the world is changing into hybrid and inclusive. Individuals are mixing totally different kinds collectively, and we’re coming to phrases with the coherence of range.” says Sonam who was awarded the Forces of Vogue award this yr by Vogue for his contribution to the Indian trend trade.

Items from the Golden Thread assortment
| Picture Credit score:
Particular Association

Sonam believes that trend shouldn’t be restrictive, and it ought to push the boundaries set by tendencies. Talking about his upbringing, he says that being a worldwide citizen has meant he has at all times seemed into parts that aren’t simply distinctive, but in addition have an aesthetic ethos. “I’ve learnt that I can put issues collectively in methods others can’t. I’m a mixologist — of tales and collections. This turns into an area for extra folks, and leads to celebrating the concept of range.” 

The Golden Thread assortment is influenced by artwork around the globe. “There’s African embroidery, floral influences, Silk Route bead work, eri silk from Assam and extra. I mix cultural heritage, however inside the house of Indian embroidery. It turns into an train in mapping tales, and that’s intrinsically what I’ve been searching for — historic linkages.” he says. The gathering has hand embroidered bolero jackets, wraps, coats, and hand painted capes. The textiles used are upcycled classic silks in brocade and ikat blended with velvet, silk, handloom cotton, eri silk, khadi and wool.

What units this assortment aside is his slant in the direction of a extra modern design factor that appeals to a youthful crowd. “My collections usually work for these 30 and above. Now, I’m attempting to usher in youthful individuals who perceive the aesthetics and magnificence of classic textiles.” he provides. 

Pieces from the Golden Thread collection

Items from the Golden Thread assortment
| Picture Credit score:
Particular Association

Given his Buddhist heritage, he gravitated in the direction of sluggish trend lengthy earlier than it grew to become a pattern. “Since I’ve a slower tempo of life and spend quite a lot of my time meditating and studying, it intuitively extends into my work. This appeals to a world of people who find themselves realising the significance of being rooted.” He quips that the concept is to work in small workshops — a pop-up in Delhi, a exhibiting in Chennai, promoting in Vancouver, and collections in elements of Europe. 

The wealthy historical past and heritage of India holds quite a lot of artwork in textiles. Artisans who’ve honed their expertise for generations turn into a designer’s inspiration and driving pressure. He says, “we create employment, and with the correct of employment, we maintain sluggish trend. Our trend is totally totally different from the remainder of the world. There is no such thing as a single entity who does the stitching and chopping right here. Our trend impacts complete communities.”

Pieces from the Golden Thread collection

Items from the Golden Thread assortment
| Picture Credit score:
Particular Association

His newest collaboration with Royal Enfield was a capsule assortment of menswear in eri silk. The Himalayan Knot assortment was co-created with the weavers and craftsmen in Bongai gaon, Assam, at Northeastern NGO ANT (Motion Northeast Belief) that works in the direction of the event of villages within the states. “Vogue has the power to affect folks. The form of girls who put on my collections are strong-willed, those that have a voice, like Tabu, Konkona Sen Sharma, Isabella Rossellini, Vidya Balan, and it makes me glad that I empower them and that they’re part of my work” he says.

“My garments are my passport to my life as a result of they’ve opened me as much as journey, but in addition to review and meet new folks. The whole lot is linked to the opposite. You would possibly assume that you simply’ve created one thing nice, however you’re truly linked to a 100 million individuals who have been additionally creating one thing.” he says, recalling the long-lasting scene from the movie Satan Wears Prada concerning the blue sweater Anne Hathaway wears. Meryl Streep within the scene quips, “that blue represents hundreds of thousands of {dollars} and numerous jobs. And it’s type of comical the way you assume that you simply’ve made a selection that exempts you from the style trade…”

Pieces from the Golden Thread collection

Items from the Golden Thread assortment
| Picture Credit score:
Particular Association

Sonam says, “I’ve solely tried to be a bridge. My story, my complete assortment has been an try to create a linkage between worlds.”

The golden thread assortment is on show at The Amethyst, Whites street, Chennai till December 25; Store beginning ₹9,500

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