A korvai kanjivaram in mint inexperienced (derived from mulberry leaves) shimmers with lotus motifs in gold zari and is highlighted by a uninteresting arakku (maroon, derived from Indian madder) 11-inch border. Six extra such saris crafted in combos of crimson, purple, indigo and pink, had been unveiled at RmKV Silks on September 14. What makes this line particular is that they’re all woven in pure dyes. “They’re made utilizing pure dye yarns and handwoven by the weavers of Kanchipuram,” says Shankar Kumaraswamy, director, RmKV Silks, based in 1924.
A lot in vogue until 1856, pure dye gave technique to the artificial model, which was cheaper and extra handy to make use of. However poisonous effluents from artificial dyes have an effect on the environment. “We’re attempting to revive our misplaced textile custom and doing our bit to guard the planet,” he says.
The pure dye library
The R & D wing of RmKV Silks situated at Arani, a weaving cluster in Thiruvannamalai district, has been concerned within the improvement of pure dyes over the previous 10 years. “Our 30-member crew, comprising weavers, dye makers, and textile engineers, was educated by Toofan Rafai, an acclaimed painter and vegetable and pure dye specialist from Gujarat, ten years in the past. This doyen of pure dye got here to our R & D in Arani and educated 30 members of our crew a decade in the past. After many trials and errors, we developed over 60 completely different shades,” says Shankar.
Based in 1924 by RmK Visvanatha Pillai within the small enterprise city of Tirunelveli, RmKV is well-known for identify relating to marriage ceremony silk sarees. The model has showrooms in unfold throughout Chennai, Tirunelveli, Coimbatore, and Bengaluru. Over the previous 30 years, RmKV has been pioneering improvements labeled beneath design, coloration and cloth. A few of its iconic improvements together with Hamsa Damayanti (handwoven silk sarees impressed by artist Raja Ravi Varma’s work), silk sarees with 50,000 uncommon colors and shades, and grand reversible silk saris, to call a couple of.
The Naturals assortment options sarees in wealthy purple and amber tones derived from manjishta (Indian madder) and arraku (lac), and a mixture of those additionally lead to deep crimson. ”Pure dye extraction and preparation is a time-consuming and labour-intensive course of,” he explains. For instance, it takes round 40 days to make the indigo dye (used for all shades of blue) blocks, together with 19 days of fermentation of the dye in an earthen pot.
“Naturally, the price of manufacturing additionally goes up, however we’ve got ensured that the burden just isn’t transferred to the shoppers, and subsequently have consciously priced our saris,” says Shankar, including, “We’re within the technique of creating newer shades utilizing pure substances.” The vary is priced between ₹15,000 and ₹30,000. Alum stone, fenugreek, turmeric, catechu resin, sappan wooden, myrobalan, purple soil, pomegranate shells, mulberry leaves, and marigold flowers are among the pure substances which are historically used to create pure dyes.
“We take note of the suggestions we obtain. We now have a powerful R &D crew with the assistance of which we got here up with our second innovation for this 12 months, Lino silk saris,” says Pranav Kumaraswamy of RmKV Silks. Lino silks are handwoven kanjivarams which are 40% lighter. Silk saris normally weigh one kilogram on a mean, however these saris weigh 600 grams roughly.
The Lino assortment
The saris on show, executed in gold, resplendent in daring colors and creative themes and motifs, fall properly and are stylish. A sundown yellow one with a contrasting crimson border, as an illustration, options the Taj Mahal motif. “The Lino saris had been created particularly for the youthful technology, and are handwoven utilizing completely different strategies to derive a light-weight texture, and supply breathability,” he says.
RmKV Silks has used two patented strategies to develop the Lino silk sari, specifically, the KV method (named after Okay Viswanathan, one of many founders) and the Lino method. The KV method is utilized to derive an interlocking meenakari impact within the cloth, and the Lino method lends a gauzy texture. “The entire course of necessitated the twisting of the yarn in a novel method, adopted by an entire restructuring of the looms,” says Pranav.
The Naturals and Lino Silk vary can be found throughout all RmKV Silks showrooms and costs begin at ₹ 25,000.