Style loves juxtaposition. So it’s hardly a shock that the hooded costume, nestled amid the paradox of a component designed to cover the wearer making them stand out, has risen to the highest of trend’s trending lists.
The silhouette not too long ago catapulted to fame on the Cannes Movie Competition 2023 — that concludes right now — when Aishwarya Rai Bachchan walked the carpet in a Sophie Couture robe with a large silver hood connected to the black corseted bodice. Whereas this look induced the hooded robe to occupy mainstream Indian consciousness, it has hardly been the one one round. Mrunal Thakur walked the Cannes carpet in an ornate hooded outfit by Anamika Khanna whereas Anne Hathaway was labelled “mom” by social media feeds globally for her sequinned Versace gold hood at a latest Bulgari occasion.
First launched by Yves Saint Laurent on the runway in 1969, the hooded costume silhouette was popularised by Azzedine Alaia’s customized Bond-girl wardrobe for Grace Jones within the 80s. The latest fashionable resurgence has seen it throughout worldwide homes like Saint Laurent, Alaia, Coperni, Halpern, and Schiaparelli to call a number of. Nearer house, designer Gaurav Gupta’s hardened shell hooded creations have drawn consideration, particularly in an electric-blue iteration worn by Cardi B for the Grammy Awards 2023.
So what’s it concerning the silhouette that has discovered favour with celebrities throughout the globe? “I believe hooded silhouettes are gaining recognition proper now, particularly with celebrities as a result of they’re consistently attempting to redefine themselves,” says Lylah Shaw, founding father of the label Ituvana. “As a designer, I discover the technicality of designing and creating hooded clothes thrilling as a result of it provides a component of thriller and edge to the outfit,” she provides concerning the silhouette’s private enchantment to her. “I’ve experimented with incorporating hoods with conventional clothes like kaftans and kurtas as nicely and it immediately provides a novel and unconventional fashion.”
For Gaurav Gupta, the enchantment of the hooded costume lies in its drama. “Individuals are in search of one thing new, completely different, and attention-grabbing. A whole lot of conventional outfits of many cultures had this silhouette because the touchstone of the drapes or hats individuals used to put on and I additionally see the hood changing that whereas including the correct of recent age drama to it. It’s a brand new silhouette that’s being extensively accepted, which is thrilling for me proper now.”
Moreover, with the fast and reliant rise of the style markets within the Center East and south-east Asia, hooded clothes are climate applicable and resonate with cultural values too.
The cultural join
“I believe hooded silhouettes present a way of nostalgia,” Lylah says. Hoods have been worn throughout cultures by means of the years, as markers of cultural identities and faith. This nostalgic enchantment has performed an enormous function within the silhouette’s recognition. “The act of protecting one’s head with a hood carries a sure symbolism and evokes reminiscences of various occasions and traditions. I believe celebrities are attempting to consider what an outfit means to them as an individual,” she provides.
Take, for instance, mannequin Bella Hadid paying homage to her Center Japanese roots with a hooded costume at a latest look at Style Belief Arabia Awards. This fashion-forward intersection represents a celebration and normalisation of self-expression and cultural identification.
A brand new-age sensuality
In a sartorial panorama populated with skin-tight silhouettes and bare clothes, the hooded costume appears antithetical. Nonetheless, regardless of the surplus material on a hooded robe, they normally add a degree of attract to the wearer that the slinkiest of strappy clothes don’t.
A significant factor for that is the consolation a hooded costume affords the wearer. “Merely put, should you really feel good in an outfit, you look good,” says Fatima Punjaabi, founding father of the label Mati. “Hooded clothes have an ideal steadiness of an uncovered neckline and even shoulders whereas including thriller with the hood.”
There may be additionally the fluid component of the languidly draped materials that add to the sensuality. “Materials play a vital function. Prime quality silks and cottons drape and movement gracefully and improve the general sexual enchantment,” says Lylah.
The silhouette’s recognition seamlessly transcends into the true world. Straddling the road between couture glamour and high-street ease, informal variations of hooded clothes have the potential to be an enduring pattern.
The pattern off the runways is a bit more relaxed, with shift clothes and tunics adorned with a minimal hood. Mati’s breezy hooded tunics have been favoured by their prospects in line with Fatima. “The hooded tunic did very nicely for us. Folks aren’t utilizing the hood like within the robes with celebrities. It’s only a cool enjoyable component. With robes it’s elegant whereas with informal clothes it’s extra sporty.”
The hood can also be an understated extension of self-expression, making it a fascinating alternative. “I believe it’s equally attention-grabbing for the shoppers to put on this off the runway – it’s simple and daring on the similar time and makes a correct trend assertion,” concludes Gaurav.